Lamu: the island where time stood still
It's almost impossible to resist writing about the UNESCO World Heritage island of Lamu. Its history, its culture, its flawless light and its shifting tides - I come back time and again and am captivated by the island's charm every time.
Perhaps it’s the absence of cars, or the alleyways that weave through the town, or the Arabic houses with their riveted wooden doors, but walk through Lamu town and you could be forgiven for thinking you’d stepped back to a former time. The hustle and bustle around the port is that of the old trading post it once was, in the bygone days of the trade routes. Still today, you’ll see heavily laden dhows sailing into port, and men unloading them onto the backs of waiting donkeys. Still today you’ll see ladies draped in hijab or burqa strolling down the alleys and shopping in the markets. Still today you’ll see boys in prayer caps and girls in headscarves converging on the Madrasa, and hear them chanting the words that have been spoken for centuries.
Lamu Old Town was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001. Stories abound of ships from as far afield as China and Persia docking here over a thousand years ago, and the beads, porcelain and earthenware found here would seem to confirm this. However, the first written testimony of the island dates to 1441, when an Arab traveller met a judge from Lamu in Mecca. Several ruins remain from that time. Takwa Ruins, on Manda island, was a Swahili trading town of mosques, tombs and houses, all aligned to Mecca. Siyu, on Pate Island, was once a centre of Islamic scholarship. Faza was destroyed by Pate in the 13thCentury, and rose again only to be destroyed by the Portuguese in the 16thCentury.
Today’s Lamu is calmer. Most of the dhows plying the channel are carrying not traders looking for a deal or invaders trying their luck, but tourists basking in the Lamu sunshine and fishermen returning to the island with the delicacies the sea provides. From the seafront Lamu House, visitors can watch the dhows docking while sampling what the fishermen brought in. Shela village, just along the coast from Lamu town, is home to whitewashed Arabic houses, boutique shops and the enduring Peponi Hotel at whose bar punters swig a Tusker or sip its signature cocktail: the Old Pal. Across the channel on Manda Island, visitors can bask in barefoot luxury at Manda Bay, and look out over the pristine seas of Kiunga Marine National Reserve.
Contrary to yesteryear’s travails and turbulence, tourists today spend their days strolling along the white sand beaches, windsurfing, water skiing and wallowing in the warm waters. Those who want to go further hop on a dhow and sail down the channel, out to any of the outlying islands, or to snorkelling sites where the range of colours of coral and sea creatures has to be seen to be believed. And of course, those who delight in stepping back in time just have to wander the alleys of Lamu town, or the ancient ruins of Takwa and Pate, with a guide whose tales will transport them through the centuries.
Tamara Britten, 02 July 2019
Published also in: Coastal Footprints
About the region
Lamu
Made up of a collection of idyllic islands at the northern end of Kenya’s coastline, the Lamu Archipelago is living history. The Old Town’s narrow alleys, Arabic architecture, fort and mosques speak of age old culture, while the surrounding beaches and reefs sparkle in today’s sunshine.
Read more about LamuWhere to stay
It’s said that the name of this collection of elegant houses was bestowed on them by fishermen on seeing them glowing with moonlight one night. The houses can be taken together or separately; all have Lamu carved doors, hand crafted Lamu furniture, Zanzibar chests, ...
Honeymoon House sits high on the sand dunes, looking down on Shela Beach. This expansive house has a wealth of facilities, including an L-shaped 30-meter swimming pool traversing its courtyard garden, a media room and three boats. The staff of 12 includes a house manager, chefs, ...
The lovely Forodhani House rises from the seafront of Shela Village, giving it stunning views in all directions. Built in Swahili style, the house combines traditional architecture with modern facilities. With a courtyard garden, swimming pool, plenty of relaxation space and a team of friendly ...
An exquisite resort on Manda Island, The Majlis reflects Lamu’s traditional heritage with a fusion of Swahili, Arabic and Indian architecture. The resort extends along the seafront, and offers a wide selection of facilities and activities. There are 25 en-suite rooms, made up of superior, ...
Set in lush tropical gardens, Fatuma’s Tower is a tranquil retreat. It is named after Fatuma Abu Bakar, a Swahili noblewoman who lived here attended by 5 female slaves during the 19th century. After her death and the abolition of slavery, the house fell into ...
A spacious house with great character, Shela House centres on an open courtyard, the well and an ancient gardenia. The courtyard is framed by seating and dining areas. The house is furnished with traditional Lamu furniture and adorned with local artefacts. There are 5 en-suite rooms, ...
Manda Bay is a small boutique lodge offering informal pampering and barefoot luxury. Located on the northwest tip of Manda Island, one of the many idyllic islands of the Lamu Archipelago, and surrounded by miles of soft yellow sand and acres of bush land behind ...
With a name that means heaven in Swahili, Peponi Hotel is a beachfront paradise. The hotel opened in 1967 and has remained in the hands of the same family ever since. There are 24 en-suite rooms, made up of 14 standard and 10 superior. Each room is individually designed ...
This attractive retreat is formed from a collection of houses set in bright tropical gardens. It offers daily yoga sessions, treatments and courses. The main house, Banana House, has 3 interconnecting en-suite rooms opening onto the garden, 3 en-suite 1st floor rooms with shared terrace and 1 penthouse. ...
In a sea of whitewashed buildings, Msafini Hotel’s bright yellow façade stands out. The hotel opened in 2009, and combines traditional style with modern architecture. There are 14 en-suite rooms, made up of doubles, twins and triples. Each room has a private balcony. The hotel ...
Formerly the house of the Liwali, or governor of the fort, Subira House is unique in style. The current owners bought the house in 1991, when it was in a state of disrepair, and restored it to its former elegance using traditional materials and methods. The ...
With a name meaning green in Swahili, Kijani House is a lush retreat on the beachfront of Shela. Framed by clusters of frangipani and bougainvillea, this whitewashed Swahili house recreates the atmosphere of the early days of Lamu. There are 9 en-suite double rooms and 2 suites ...
Lamu Palace Hotel is a whitewashed building with thatched roof, located directly on the seafront in Lamu Old Town. There are 22 en-suite rooms and 1 suite. The rooms are all furnished with Lamu 4-poster beds. They are on the 1st and 2nd floors; both floors have ...
According to legend, Baitil Aman was built in the 18th century by Hajj Abdalla as a gift for his bride, the beautiful Binti Luali of the Shela clan. The building collapsed, but so great was Hajj Abdalla’s love for Binti Luali that he rebuilt ...
This traditional Lamu house has been lovingly restored and embellished with genuine antiques. The house is intended for visitors who really appreciate the traditional ambience, style and culture of Lamu. Baytil Ajaib has 2 en-suite double rooms and 2 suites. The rooms have a long sitting area ...
In charming Swahili architecture, Lamu House is an elegant fusion of traditional style and modern facilities. The house faces directly onto Lamu seafront, and is made up of 2 restored houses surrounding a central courtyard with swimming pool. There are 10 en-suite rooms, made up of 4 singles ...
Beyt Salaam, meaning house of peace, is an attractive house which combines traditional Arabian and Swahili styles with modern facilities. The hotel opened in 2010, and overlooks the seafront. There are 4 en-suite double rooms. Ndau room is on the ground floor, Pate and Siyu rooms are ...